January 24, 2014

The Big Bang Canine Theory

Have you ever wondered how current canine science could help a gun dogs genetic greatness?  Over the past few years I have developed my Top 5 Tips to help improve a gun dogs health and well being. They are listed below, with links to my past articles that dive deeper into each factor. By tracing back my library of articles and linking them to what I feel are my Top 5 Tips, I hope to correlate all this mumbo jumbo once and for all into what I like to call "The Big Bang Canine Theory".

#1. Clean Water.  Yep, it's the the most obvious but most often overlooked canine health improvement. Keep a constant flow of fresh, purified water available. It seems very elementary, but normal tap water can have high levels of micro nasty type cancer causing toxins, fertilizer and poisonous run off that are floating around in our water supply that negatively effect both short and long term health of your dog(s)...and us humans as well! Water is our life blood. It should be respected. Your dogs ability to remain healthy, happy, and hunting hard depends on it as a top priority. Also, keep your dog dishes cleaned out and sanitary. More dogs get sick by stale water than anything so it is very important to keep there feed stations absolutely sterile.
Click here for more water information.

#2. Quality Food Ingredients. Focus on foods with 30%+ protein sources derived from animal meats and eliminate false protein grain gluten period. I said grain gluten, not eliminating grain! I am a huge proponent of grain inclusion in canine diets. It's just making sure they are the right carbo's like rice, barley, etc and not those like corn gluten that falsely boost protein percentages without doing anything to help your dogs nutrition!  Fat is your dog(s) primary source of energy. High fat foods(20%+) are the core of our hard charging gun dogs gas tanks and help make more game in your bag.
Click here for more food information.

#3,  Energy Dense Food. Maximize the Kcal/Per Cup that your dog is eating and good things will happen! High quality, energy packed dog food will not only help your hunting buddy stay in the field longer and harder, it just very well may extend his or her life.  Plus you will spend less in the long run by buying a cleaner "burning" food.  Looking at the price per bag doesn't mean anything. How much nutrition your dog(s) gets per cup is the most important aspect.
Click here for more food caloric information.

#4. Conditioning, Conditioning, Conditioning. Without question, a major key to every healthy gun dog is daily physical activity.  Ask yourself; are you working your dog(s) on a set schedule? How much time are they spending outside working or conditioning? Have you looked at the caloric food formulas to adjust for energy in = energy out...and changed daily feeding rations according to the amount of their activity? Conditioning plays a vital roll in the evolution of our gun dogs. Be a master of their workouts. This will result in a dog that is rock solid and ready to roll at a moments notice!
Click here for more about canine conditioning.

#5 The Season Is Never Really Over. If you want a gun dog to perform at its maximum than the expectation it to get game in front of them as often as possible both during the season as well as their off time! Mandatory vet check up at least twice a year(before the season and after). Please be a responsible gun dog owner, no matter how many dogs you have! Boosters, dewormers, vaccines, annual tests, and all that goes with owning a hard charging gun dog behind the scenes! Keeping them healthy and on game year round is a major task and one we are all rewarded with come hunt season.
Click here for more about gun dog health care.





This is from Chris Mathan's Gallery. One of my favorite pics ever. Shows a well conditioned English Pointer who is slick, ready, and willing! This dog's owner observes the Top 5 Tips for sure! Please check out her work at www.strideaway.com  



September 12, 2013

Canine Athletic Stress and Immunity Boosting on a Budget

In most states both upland and waterfowl seasons are already open. As hunters we will put our four legged partners under a great deal of athletic stress over the course of the next few months. With stress, just like us humans, comes an adverse effect on a canines immune system. As long, cold, wet hunts increase, a decrease in a dogs immune system occurs therefore increasing their risk of infection and illness. One way to help your dog garner back some of this stress related immunity loss is to supplement their regular diet with a healthy and regular dose of Beta-Carotene.

Beta-Carotene(BC) comes from the family of vitamins called carotenoids. Carotenoids are those dark dark red pigments that help color vegetables like tomatoes, carrots, and yellow bell peppers. Fact is, dogs can not make there own BC so they must find or be given a digestable source by us humans. Canines do however posses an enzyme in their intestines that converts BC into a highly active form of Vitamin A. Vitamin A is extremely important to support the health of a dogs respiratory and and intestinal tract. Basically, BC converted to Vit A strengthens the internal membranes that line both the lungs and the intestines. Both the lungs and intestines are where foreign pathogens are more likely to enter a dog's system. So common sense dictates giving these two areas a nutrient boost will help ward of bacterial infections or airborne viruses. 

But BC is not just a one trick pony or magic bullet. BC must be supplemented on a regular basis and over long periods of time to increase the absorption rate into the dogs system.  Not only will this prolonged supplement of BC increase the respiratory and intestinal health, it has been also found to highly increase the strength and functionality of lymphnodes that also play a huge part in fighting off infections. Recent studies also show the dogs supplemented with BC also show higher levels of anitbodies than dogs that are not supplemented.

Ok, so I know what you're thinking.  This is the time when I'm going to pitch some high dollar, multi deluxe, super, supreme, cure all type, vitamin supplement that can only be found by ordering it online from some obscure company in Sweden. Nope. Not this blue collar guy. Just go down to your local grocery store and buy a bag of fresh, organic baby carrots for less than $5. Switch out those nutrionally worthless doggie cookie treats with a hand full of fresh baby carrots everyday.

For less than $20 a month your hunting buddy is getting a snack that they will absolutely love to chomp into. Which, come to think of it, is probaby a few bucks less than a big bag of cookie treats and much more healthier and much cheaper than any over the counter pill form supplement. Even better, you know it will give them a great source of natural, organically derived BC and other essential vitamins to help fight off the nasties. Plus, we all know carrots improve our vision which is another positve side effect of BC! An additonal bonus to feeding baby carrots is because of their rough texture they also help clean teeth and gums very well! So it's a win(vitamin supplement), win(money saving), win(treat giving), win(teeth cleaning) four way winner of a deal to help increase your four legged hunting partners health and well being while saving you a few bucks along the way. 

Best of Luck Out There,

Mark      

June 27, 2013

Dr. Tim's Premium Athletic Dog Food

There is something to be said about the saying, "You get out what you put in." I suppose that old proverb reigns true in relation to both Dallas & Mitch Seavey, consecutive winners of the 2012 and 2013 Iditarod Sled Dog Race. They also happen to be son and father and also both just happen to feed Dr. Tim's Dog Food to their race teams.

Normally, I do not pick sides in my blog posts when it comes to brands and products. But their comes a time when every man needs to draw a line in the sand. It's proven that Dr. Tim Hunt makes what many, including this guy, believes is the very best premium athletetic dog food in the world. I would reckon there are folks from all sorts of canine athletic walks of life that would echo my sentiment. Just the other day I received an email from a reader who asked some great questions concerning his American Water Spaniel.

Reader's question...

Hello and good morning! I stumbled upon your blog this morning while doing my own research for advice and information pertaining to my dogs nutrition. I have a soon to be three year old American Water Spaniel that is currently being fed XXX dog food and prior to that WWW. I choose these food because they are locally made and have been a trusted brand in my family. However, my dog lacks energy when out hunting and while training. I have had his blood work tested and everything is perfect, therefore my vet and I agreed it could be food related. He has no aversions to grains or proteins either. I therefore concluded that the food simply lacks enough calories or is too low in protein. Am I right in my conclusion? And if so do you have a recommendation for both a protein to fat ratio as well as how many calories per day he should receive. He currently gets no more than 1 3/4 cups per day at about 400 calories per cup. I would also be interested in your thoughts on a specific brand of food. It seems as if there is a huge push away from corn, wheat, soy, glutens, etc. However it also seems that the majority of trialers, breeders, and professionals feed XXX and WWW alike, and foods that include those ingredients. I am not averse to either formula of food personally. I certainly would appreciate a nudge in the right direction. Thanks so much for taking the time to read this and for your help. Your blog is a great resource for information! All the Best! -Kevin

My response...

Kevin, First off, thank you very much for taking the time to contact me. But most importantly, thanks for caring for the health and wellbeing of your American Water Spaniel. You bring up some great questions and concerns. Hopefully I can help. You're currently feeding good foods but ones that lack the neccessary daily caloric intake your canine athlete requires. Without the needed calories, energy and stamina tends to suffer. It's also a weird dog food world we live in. XXX and WWW have cornerstoned the sporting dog marketing world. Big business has a way of doing such things. Those companies, with vast sums of advertising money, can easily control and manipulate the way field trailers, professionals, kennel owners, and breeders support their brand. Believe me, I fed XXX for years and was a die hard advocate until I really had that life moment when I stepped back and took the time to understand what I was actually feeding my dogs! The field trail world is sort of like NASCAR where everyone, by regulation, must run Goodyear tires and Shell gas. Trialers tend to breed, raise, train, and run their dogs with the same NASCAR mentatily. By no means makes them bad foods.In fact, They are good foods but far from great. Unfortunately, sponsorship may pay their bills to play man games with gun dogs! Personally, I would tell you to check out Dr. Tim's Momentum Formula. His food is like Perelli tires and Nitrous Oxide gas when it comes to fuel for canine athletes. It is HIGHLY digestible, aka food burns hotter and brighter in your dogs coal stove(stomach). At 588kcal per cup of Dr. Tim's Momentum you will feed the same as you are and have and your spaniel digesting more completely and his field energy will surely increase! It's a food made by a Vet who actually cares and is made specifially for real canine athletes. Outside of all this food talk... Please make sure you're giving your spaniel good, clean, purified, water to drink. Nothing in this world can help a dog's long term health more than fresh, crystal clear water! Thanks again and hope all is well!

Best of luck out there. -Mark
Click on the below ad to be directed to Dr.Tim's website.

February 7, 2013

Pocket Guide For Dog Food Consumers Vol. II

A few years ago I wrote an article that has become one of my most widely read blog posts ever. It is long overdue to update and republish it. As the dog food world grows, so does the information and types of ingredients used.

These days more and more gun dog owners are asking questions about proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and other dog food nutrients. It is reassuring to know people want straight answers and are serious about supplying their hunting partners with the best nutrition possible. It is a confusing retail world out there with hundreds of dog foods to choose from. It is also long overdue that I put together a sort of "cliff's notes" or pocket guide to better help the dog food consumer.

Proteins are the basic building blocks of life. Protein intake ensures cells, tissues, organs, enzymes, hormones and antibodies are digested for growth, maintenance, reproduction, repair and energy. Meat proteins such as chicken, lamb, turkey, beef, bison, venison, duck, and fish have complete amino acid profiles. That simple means they contain all of the amino acids your dog needs. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and are divided into essential and non-essential amino acids. Essential amino acids are ones that cannot be manufactured by the body in sufficient quantities and must be supplied in the working dogs diet. Examples of essential amino acids are carnitine, arginine and lysine. Non-essential amino acids are ones that your dog can produce naturally in sufficient quantities. Protein levels for working gun dogs should be right around 30% give or take the amount of activity. That percentage can be found right on the bag in the guaranteed analysis. But buyer beware! An advertised 30% protein rating can be misleading. Some manufacturers use vegetable based protein gluten, a.k.a. "corn gluten" to boost the protein rating. Because of vegetable gluten's composition it leads to an inherent lack of digestibility. Most of the "advertised" protein content will be eaten and excreted by your dog with very little nutritional protein absorption ever taking place.

Fats are the most concentrated form of food energy for dogs. Fats provide your gun dog with more than twice the energy of proteins or carbohydrates! Fats are essential in the structure of cells and are needed for the production of some hormones. They are also required for absorption and utilization of fat-soluble vitamins like vitamins A, D, and E. The correct balance of fats can be found in top rated healthy dog food. Importantly, fats supply fatty acids which dogs need for a multitude of reasons—from helping to provide healthier skin and coat to reducing inflammation in joints. Dogs can produce some of the fatty acids they need, but not all of them so these "essential" fatty acids must be supplied by their diet. Essential fatty acids are divided into two groups—Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. Ingredients like chicken fat and sunflower oil are great sources of Omega-6 fatty acids while flax seed, herring oil and salmon oil are key sources of Omega-3 fatty acids. Fats should range around 20% and like Protein, can be found right on the guaranteed analysis portion normally located on the back or side of the bag. Again, like protein, this can be a higher or lower percentage given your dogs needs. It all depends on what you feel your dog must intake given their active level. The base range for a highly active sporting breed is around a 30% Protein/20% Fat mix diet so use that as your base line in judgement.

Carbohydrates are another source of energy for dogs. Unlike human marathon runners who scarf down plates of pasta before a big race, dogs rely on carb's as only a minor source of "boost" energy. Think of your dogs gas tank burning like this; fat first, protein second(unused protein gets stored as fat so the cycle continues). Carb's role in a dog's metabolism is to covert it to Glucose and pack a quick, immediate energy source that is very rapidly burned off. Whole grains such as, brown rice, barley and oats, are all low-fat sources of highly-digestible complex carbohydrates. Whole grains are also a rich source of dietary fiber which is crucial for healthy intestinal function. Whole grains are also helpful with the common problems of constipation in dogs, which can be caused by a diet that is lacking in fiber. Notice how we did not mention whole corn, wheat or soy? These are all low grade grains and contribute as only a minor source of glucose conversion.

Vitamin A helps promote healthy bones, teeth, coat, skin, eyes, and mucous membranes. Vitamin A is important to the immune system and has been known to help ward off or fight respiratory infections

Vitamin B12 is necessary for proper growth and used to treat some types of nerve damage and pernicious anemia. B12 is also helpful in the recovery process our canine athletes endure during times of hunting or sporting related exercise.

Vitamin C is the world's most potent antioxidant immune booster. It is known to help prevent bacterial, viral and degenerative diseases such as arthritis, diabetes, auto immune disease and cancer. Vitamin C is water soluble and can lose potency when exposed to high temperatures. A favorite dog treats is baby carrots. I highly suggest trying them as a low cost/ great source of Vitamin C, Vitamin B, Potassium, and Calcium for your own dog(s). I would further suggest buying the organic/no preservative version as they are free of pesticides.

Vitamin D promotes skin, bone, connective tissue and heart health. It is necessary for the proper absorption and utilization of calcium and phosphorus. Just like your mother always said...drink your milk for strong bones...a strong supply of the Big "D" is an essential for your working gun dog.

Vitamin E is another valuable antioxidant that helps improve circulation and cardiac output.

Mixed Tocopherols are a natural preservative made from Vitamin E and found in all premium foods. Tocopherols are a good thing to see on an ingredient list. Watch out for harmful synthetic preservatives such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin, or propylene glycol that provide no nutritional value and have been associated with possible toxic side effects. FYI, synthetic preservative are used by low grade dog food companies because they are cheap!

Dempsey at 8 week old. Jan 2010. Started on a super premium, natural high performance food.

Ingredients to look for...
There are not many dog food companies who add true Probiotics(healthy bacteria cultures to aid in digestion) Think of it like Actevia yogurt for dogs(you know the Jaime Lee Curtis commercials!) There are a few companies out there that add Probiotic cultures so when researching look for ingredients like Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Bacillus Subtilis, Bifidobacterium Thermophilum, Bifidobacterium Longum and Enterococcus Faecium. Each of these are active dehydrated cultures added after processing. They are activated on ingesting the food and help to maintain normal bacteria balance in the lower intestine. They aid in digestion and reduce the occurrence of diarrhea, contributing to colon and rectum health. The dog food companies who add active bacteria cultures for healthy digestion are the companies who truly separate themselves from the pack. Rest assured, their first concern is your dogs health, not their profit margin!

Many manufactures now add Prebiotics. Prebiotics are, in layman's terms, health food to help boost naturally preexisting Probiotic cultures already active in your dog's digestive system. Natural prebiotics are complex carbohydrates added to the ingredients of the food during the manufacturing process. The food is then eaten by your dog releasing the prebiotics or their technical term Fructo Oligo Sacharides(FOS). Finding a food with either(pre or probiotics) is a step in the right direction to a healthy dog! Please note, both Probiotic and Prebiotic ingredients are very low in actual volume so on the foods ingredient they are normally found towards the bottom.

It would be also helpful to look for foods that include high levels of potent Antioxidants such as cranberries and blueberries or other known anitoxidents. Why? Some free radicals arise normally during metabolism. The canine’s body’ immune system cells purposefully create them to neutralize and help ward off viruses and bacteria. Environmental factors such as pollution, radiation, cigarette smoke and herbicides can also spawn free radicals. Normally, the canine body can handle free radicals, but if antioxidants are unavailable, or if the free-radical production becomes excessive, damage can occur over time to your dog's health and well being. If the food you currently feed doesn't contain any antioxidents is also possible to supplement with fresh the fresh fruits listed above. Funny side story; Many years ago I had a Gordon Setter named Rocky. He would walk around our picking and eat blackberries right off the vine. I guess he was way a head of his time!

Chelated Minerals. Do your research by manufacturer to find out if this very important factor is included in the formula of their food. Important minerals such as zinc, copper, and iron in your dogs diet are obviously needed. Those minerals "alone" are very hard for a dog to digest, therefore they do not absorb them completely. If they are "chelated", which means they are chemically attached to a protein molecule it "magically" makes them much easier for a dog to digest more effeciently.  And that my friends...is how magic happens in the molecular world of canine nutrition!

Dempsey(foreground) Today!

When shopping for a new dog food keep these helpful hints in mind...
The top 10 ingredients usually comprise 80% or more of a dry pet food’s entire formula and give you a great perspective of its ingredient quality.

All pet foods must list the ingredients present in their food, in order of weight. But understand, moisture content can lessen the volume in the ingredients. FYI. Ingredients are listed as "before cooking" weights and high moisture proteins can "shrink" greatly during the kibble cooking process.

Whole meat protein based "meals"(previously ground dehydrated meat before cooking) are 300% more potent as a protein source than a pure meat source!

Super premium pet foods have whole chicken, duck, venison, bison, lamb, turkey, beef, fish or other known quality meat protein sources in whole form or meal form as the first ingredient and a combination of at least 2-3 meat protein sources in the top 5 ingredients.

"Animal By-Product" is by ingredient classification: "Animal by-products are ground, rendered, and cleaned slaughtered meat carcass parts such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, bones, heads, and intestines (and a small amount of feathers in the case of chicken) It is also known that the quality of animal by-products is very inconsistent between batches(sometimes more beaks and feats than quality organ meat etc). If you do choose a food that contains any "by-products" at minimum make sure they are a "named" protein. Aka, "Chicken" by-product etc. A compnay that just says "meat" by-product is probably hiding something even more disgusting than I would like to think about!

If you pick up a bag of dog food and the A#1 very first ingredient is a grain source the red flags and sirens should go off in your head! I advise dropping the bag where your stand and moving on quickly!

Some pet food brands list their ingredients in several different ways so that the ones of lower quality appear farther down the ingredient list. For example, a product list could contain chicken, ground corn, corn gluten, ground wheat and corn bran. And, if you were to group all of the corn ingredients as one, they would probably far out-weigh the amount of chicken in that food. This is a manufacturer's trick and a nonregulated loop hole when listing ingedient evidence!

Starting your new puppy or switching an adult dog to a super premium food will not only prove it's worth to his or her energy in the field but in the overall health of their lives. It is never to late to switch your dog, regardless of age, to a food with premium ingredients. Remember, as humans we have the luxury of choosing our own diets. Your trusty four legged athlete does not! Feeding them right will prolong your time in the field as well as their life as your best friend.

Best of luck out there. -Mark

July 24, 2012

Food Portions for Canine Athletes

"How much should I feed my dog?"  I am asked this question more frequently than any other. It is usually followed quickly by..."the back of the bag says I should feed between 4-6 cups".  I then scratch my head. No wonder why there are so many overweight dogs. Being an overweight gun dog as well as being one expected to perform in the field is not the dogs fault, but the owners. If you want your dog to hunt at it's optimum level then please don't feed it the same amount every day. Learn to read your dog and properly react to it's nutritional needs.

In blue collar terms(since I'm a blue collar type of guy) let's think of your trusty hunting partner as a coal burning stove. The hotter and longer you want it to burn, the more coal you need to shovel into it. Just like us humanoids, dogs need calories to convert into working energy. Some days we need to burn more, some days we need less. As humans we have the ability to make this type of cognitive judgement. But it is up to us as conscientious dogs owner to determine "how much" for them. The very worse thing we can do is feed our dogs the exact same amount every day. You would be overweight too if you ate the same amount of calories everyday without "rationing" your intake to meet your energy output!




Athletically fit dogs equal more game in the bag
 
  
There are all sorts of complex mathematical equations floating around for how much we are "supposed" to feed our dogs. E=MCWhatever. It just doesn't make sense in my world of hard charging gun dogs. No dog is alike, just like people and snowflakes. The only true way is to care for your hunting companion and that means not just during the season. Find your dogs "benchmark" of food portion size and them adjust up or down given the amount of work and environmental conditions. Work and Weather can play a huge factor in determining how many calories your dog will burn a day. During the hot summer months dogs metabolism slows making it necessary to ration back food portions.  Find the benchmark by set trialing measured feeding portions, not "free feeding". By free feeding I mean, just putting out heaps of food and your dog eats when it wants and how much it wants. Although some dogs can control their intake, many can not and need to be fed strict portion sizes. Investigate how many calories per cup the food you are supplying gives your dog. Find the average "day in the life" and feed accordingly. If food is left that can be a quick notifier of to much. Of course during days of higher than normal physical activity the caloric intake needs to be increased accordingly. Closely monitor slight weight fluctuations up or down. If your dog is experiencing drastic weight increases or decreases, contact your vet for a thorough check up. There are countless variables that can effect your dogs weight including internal parasites, poor quality nutrition, stress, infections, disease, and all of which need the immediate attention of a trained professional to diagnose

I recommend feeding twice a day. Some professionals will disagree with me. But rationality speaks volumes. Dog's digest and metabolize smaller portions more completely thus making for a cleaner burning digestive system. I.E. they get more out of small amounts and breaking their feed time in half makes for a cleaner burning engine. Once you have determined the overall rate of feed per day per caloric needs, I suggest split feeding that amount.  More during the A.M. feeding than I do the P.M. Day time metabolic rates are higher because of the obvious increase in activity than the slower evening time feeding...but that might not be the case if your feeding a kennel of Blue Tick Coon Hounds! So plan accordingly and use the best human quality available in your arsenal...common sense.

Nobody knows your canine athlete like you do. Don't let anybody tell you any differently. Rely on your own perception and due diligence. Stay on top of the game for the betterment of your dogs health and well being. This means a close watch and daily changes either up or down in the amount of food you feed your trusty four legged hunting partner given how much or how little they need the calories. Oh, and watch the treats for god's sake!

Best of Luck Out There,

Mark

June 20, 2012

Energy Density

Energy; every working gun dog requires it. It takes energy to tree a coon, nail down a covey, chase out a wing shot pheasant, and the thousand other requirements we hold our trusty four legged hunting companion accountable for. Energy comes from food. But not all dog foods are created equal...

ENERGY & FOOD 
What is energy? It is the fuel that supports the function and activity of every cell in the body. This fuel is supplied by digesting food and converting the end products of digestion into a use able form. Energy Density is measured either in units of kilocalories(kcal) or kilojoules(kJ). The major factor that drives a dog to eat is its need for energy. No other mechanism exists for any other dietary component and therefore the intake of all nutrients depends on the calorie content of the food.  We measure the total energy content of any food by burning it, or we can measure the usable energy in a food by feeding it to animals in carefully controlled conditions. There are three common terms used to describe the energy content of food:
  • GROSS ENERGY (GE) When food is burnt completely in scientifically controlled conditions, the energy released can be measured as heat. This heat energy represents the total energy content and is called the gross energy of a food. Have you ever heard someone refer to a performance food as "hot". -this is what they meant by that
  • DIGESTIBLE ENERGY (DE) Not all of the gross energy of a food is available to the animal. Some components in food are not fully digested and so energy is lost in the feces. Digestible energy represents the energy which the animal is able to extract from the food.
  • METABOLIZABLE ENERGY (ME) Metabolizable energy is simply the usable energy of any foodstuff. It differs from digestible energy in that is takes account of energy lost in the urine from materials which are absorbed but not fully used in the body. It is metabolizable energy which is referred to in basic nutritional calculations.
From the importance of overall Energy Density let's take a closer look at what is Metabolizable Energy. According to our friends at Doctor's Foster's & Smith's; "understanding metabolizable energy (ME) is essential in determining the nutritional quality of your dog's food and comparing foods. ME is defined as the amount of energy available from food once the energy lost in the feces, urine, and combustible gases has been subtracted. Essentially, ME is the energy left for your dogs body to use once all digestion is complete."

To hunt hard, long, and strong a gun dog needs a certain number of calories per day. This will vary with the breed, age, sex, activity level, body condition, and other characteristics of your dog. ME, as shown on food packages, shows the amount of calories the food will provide your working gun dog. Look on the package for a statement of calorie content, expressed as "ME (kcal/kg) = ##," where ## will be a number, such as 3500. You should also see a number of calories per cup or per can, depending on whether the food is dry or canned. If you do not see the kcal per cup on the bag, call the manufacturer for the amount(it is not legally necessary for food companies to list kcal's on their bags of food!

ME essentially equals the usable calories and their concentration, or density. A higher ME indicates a higher concentration of calories, and a more energy-packed food. This can be compared to the difference between a sports energy bar and a rice cake. The energy bar has a much higher ME, because it contains concentrated calories for energy. Similar to an energy bar, dog foods with higher ME numbers provide your hunting partners body with more concentrated calories for more energy. With a higher ME, your the dogs body will receive more energy from a smaller amount of food. This also means he will eliminate less as waste, giving you less waste to clean up. Dog foods with a higher ME can also save you money in the long run since you can feed less while still providing the needed calories to fulfill your hard charging gun dogs nutritional needs.

At the end of the day there are thousands of dog food manufacturers...but not all dog foods are created for the needs of a working gun dog.

Best of Luck Out There,

Mark Northup






April 25, 2012

Lyme Disease Facts

The mild winter brought us an early spring full of beautiful, warm weather. Unfortunately, it also delivered an explosion in the tick population! I have personally lived threw the trials and tribulations of Lyme Disease by having my best canine friend suffer through it as well as my own mother. I can bear witness to it's repercussions. The American Lyme Disease Foundation(ALDF) is the leading info source for all things tick related. Let's see what they have to say about Lyme Disease;

"Lyme disease (LD) is an infection caused by Borrelia burgdorferi, a type of bacterium called a spirochete (pronounced spy-ro-keet) that is carried by deer ticks. An infected tick can transmit the spirochete to the humans and animals it bites. Untreated, the bacterium travels through the bloodstream, establishes itself in various body tissues, and can cause a number of symptoms, some of which are severe. LD manifests itself as a multi system inflammatory disease that affects the skin in its early, localized stage, and spreads to the joints, nervous system and, to a lesser extent, other organ systems in its later, disseminated stages. If diagnosed and treated early with antibiotics, LD is almost always readily cured. Generally, LD in its later stages can also be treated effectively, but because the rate of disease progression and individual response to treatment varies from one patient to the next, some patients may have symptoms that linger for months or even years following treatment. In rare instances, LD causes permanent damage.

Although LD is now the most common arthropod-borne illness in the U.S. (more than 150,000 cases have been reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention [CDC] since 1982), its diagnosis and treatment can be challenging for clinicians due to its diverse manifestations and the limitations of currently available blood tests. The prevalence of LD in the northeast and upper mid-west is due to the presence of large numbers of the deer tick's preferred hosts - white-footed mice and deer - and their proximity to humans. White-footed mice serve as the principal "reservoirs of infection" on which many larval and nymphal (juvenile) ticks feed and become infected with the LD spirochete. An infected tick can then transmit infection the next time it feeds on another host (e.g., an unsuspecting human).

Borrelia burgdorferi The LD spirochete, Borrelia burgdorferi, infects other species of ticks but is known to be transmitted to humans and other animals only by the deer tick (also known as the black-legged tick) and the related Western black-legged tick. Studies have shown that an infected tick normally cannot begin transmitting the spirochete until it has been attached to its host about 36-48 hours; the best line of defense against LD, therefore, is to examine yourself at least once daily and remove any ticks before they become engorged (swollen) with blood.

If you discover a deer tick attached to your skin that has not yet become engorged, it has not been there long enough to transmit the LD spirochete. Nevertheless, it is advisable to be alert in case any symptoms do appear; a red rash (especially surrounding the tick bite), flu-like symptoms, or joint pains in the first month following any deer tick bite could signal the onset of LD.  Manifestations of what we now call Lyme disease were first reported in medical literature in Europe in 1883. Over the years, various clinical signs of this illness have been noted as separate medical conditions: acrodermatitis, chronica atrophicans (ACA), lymphadenosis benigna cutis (LABC), erythema migrans (EM), and lymphocytic meningradiculitis (Bannwarth's syndrome). However, these diverse manifestations were not recognized as indicators of a single infectious illness until 1975, when LD was described following an outbreak of apparent juvenile arthritis, preceded by a rash, among residents of Lyme, Connecticut.

Where is Lyme Disease Prevalent?
LD is spreading slowly along and inland from the upper east coast, as well as in the upper midwest. The mode of spread is not entirely clear and is probably due to a number of factors such as bird migration, mobility of deer and other large mammals, and infected ticks dropping off of pets as people travel around the country. It is also prevalent in northern California and Oregon coast, but there is little evidence of spread.

In order to assess LD risk you should know whether infected deer ticks are active in your area or in places you may visit. The population density and percentage of infected ticks that may transmit LD vary markedly from one region of the country to another. There is even great variation from county to county within a state and from area to area within a county. For example, less than 5% of adult ticks south of Maryland are infected with B. burgdorferi, while up to 50% are infected in hyperendemic areas (areas with a high tick infection rate) of the northeast. The tick infection rate in Pacific coastal states is between 2% and 4%.

Symptoms
The spirochetal agent of Lyme disease, Borrelia burgdoferi, is transmitted to humans through a bite of a nymphal stage deer tick Ixodes scapularis (or Ixodes pacificus on the West Coast). The duration of tick attachment and feeding is a key factor in transmission. Proper identification of tick species and feeding duration aids in determining the probability of infection and the risk of developing Lyme disease.
The early symptoms of LD can be mild and easily overlooked. People who are aware of the risk of LD in their communities and who do not ignore the sometimes subtle early symptoms are most likely to seek medical attention and treatment early enough to be assured of a full recovery.

Click here for pictures of EM's The first symptom is usually an expanding rash (called erythema migrans, or EM, in medical terms) which is thought to occur in 80% to 90% of all LD cases. An EM rash generally has the following characteristics:

■Usually (but not always) radiates from the site of the tickbite

■Appears either as a solid red expanding rash or blotch, OR a central spot surrounded by clear skin that is in turn ringed by an expanding red rash (looks like a bull's-eye)

■Appears an average of 1 to 2 weeks (range = 3 to 30 days) after disease transmission

■Has an average diameter of 5 to 6 inches

(range = 2 inches to 2 feet)

■Persists for about 3 to 5 weeks

■May or may not be warm to the touch

■Is usually not painful or itchy

EM rashes appearing on brown-skinned or sun-tanned patients may be more difficult to identify because of decreased contrast between light-skinned tones and the red rash. A dark, bruise-like appearance is more common on dark-skinned patients.

Ticks will attach anywhere on the body, but prefer body creases such as the armpit, groin, back of the knee, and nape of the neck; rashes will therefore often appear in (but are not restricted to) these areas. Please note that multiple rashes may, in some cases, appear elsewhere on the body some time after the initial rash, or, in a few cases, in the absence of an initial rash. Around the time the rash appears, other symptoms such as joint pains, chills, fever, and fatigue are common, but they may not seem serious enough to require medical attention. These symptoms may be brief, only to recur as a broader spectrum of symptoms as the disease progresses.

As the LD spirochete continues spreading through the body, a number of other symptoms including severe fatigue, a stiff, aching neck, and peripheral nervous system (PNS) involvement such as tingling or numbness in the extremities or facial palsy (paralysis) can occur. The more severe, potentially debilitating symptoms of later-stage LD may occur weeks, months, or, in a few cases, years after a tick bite. These can include severe headaches, painful arthritis and swelling of joints, cardiac abnormalities, and central nervous system (CNS) involvement leading to cognitive (mental) disorders.

The following is a checklist of common symptoms seen in various stages of LD:

Localized Early (Acute) Stage:
■Solid red or bull's-eye rash, usually at site of bite

■Swelling of lymph glands near tick bite

■Generalized achiness
■Headache

Early Disseminated Stage:
■Two or more rashes not at site of bite
■Migrating pains in joints/tendons

■Headache
■Stiff, aching neck

■Facial palsy (facial paralysis similar to Bell's palsy)

■Tingling or numbness in extremities
■Multiple enlarged lymph glands
■Abnormal pulse

■Sore throat
■Changes in vision
■Fever of 100 to 102 F

■Severe fatigue

Late Stage:
■Arthritis (pain/swelling) of one or two large joints
■Disabling neurological disorders (disorientation; confusion; dizziness; short-term memory loss; inability to concentrate, finish sentences or follow conversations; mental "fog")

■Numbness in arms/hands or legs/feet

Diagnosis
If you think you have LD symptoms you should see your physician immediately. The EM rash, which may occur in up to 90% of the reported cases, is a specific feature of LD, and treatment should begin immediately.

Even in the absence of an EM rash, diagnosis of early LD should be made on the basis of symptoms and evidence of a tick bite, not blood tests, which can often give false results if performed in the first month after initial infection (later on, the tests are more reliable). If you live in an endemic area, have symptoms consistent with early LD and suspect recent exposure to a tick, present your suspicion to your doctor so that he or she may make a more informed diagnosis.
If early symptoms are undetected or ignored, you may develop more severe symptoms weeks, months or perhaps years after you were infected. In this case, the CDC recommends using the ELISA and Western-blot blood tests to determine whether you are infected. These tests, as noted above, are considered more reliable and accurate when performed at least a month after initial infection, although no test is 100% accurate.
If you have neurological symptoms or swollen joints your doctor may, in addition, recommend a PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) test via a spinal tap or withdrawal of synovial fluid from an affected joint. This test amplifies the DNA of the spirochete and will usually indicate its presence.

Treatment
Recommended courses and duration of treatment for both early and late Lyme symptoms are shown in our Table of Recommended Antibiotics and Dosages (see also table footnotes).

Early treatment of LD (within the first few weeks after initial infection) is straightforward and almost always results in a full cure. Treatment begun after the first three weeks will also likely provide a cure, but the cure rate decreases the longer treatment is delayed.

Doxycycline, amoxicillin and ceftin are the three oral antibiotics most highly recommended for treatment of all but a few symptoms of LD. A recent study of Lyme arthritis in the New England Journal of Medicine indicates that a four-week course of oral doxycycline is just as effective in treating late LD, and much less expensive, than a similar course of intravenous Ceftriaxone (Rocephin) unless neurological or severe cardiac abnormalities are present. If these symptoms are present, the study recommends immediate intravenous (IV) treatment.

Treatment of late-Lyme patients can be more complicated. Usually LD in its later stages can be treated effectively, but individual variation in the rate of disease progression and response to treatment may, in some cases, render standard antibiotic treatment regimens ineffective. In a small percentage of late-Lyme patients, the disease may persist for many months or even years. These patients will experience slow improvement and resolution of their persisting symptoms following oral or IV treatment that eliminated the infection.

Although treatment approaches for patients with late-stage LD have become a matter of considerable debate, many physicians and the Infectious Disease Society of America recognize that, in some cases, several courses of either oral or IV (depending on the symptoms presented) antibiotic treatment may be indicated. However, long-term IV treatment courses (longer than the recommended 4-6 weeks) are not usually advised due to adverse side effects. While there is some speculation that long-term courses may be more effective than the recommended 4-6 weeks, there is currently no scientific evidence to support this assertion. Click here for an article from the New England Journal of Medicine which presents clinical recommendations in the treatment and prevention of early Lyme disease.


Prevention & Control
Larval and nymphal deer ticks often hide in shady, moist ground litter, but adults can often be found above the ground clinging to tall grass, brush, and shrubs. They also inhabit lawns and gardens, especially at the edges of woodlands and around old stone walls where deer and white-footed mice, the ticks' preferred hosts, thrive. Within the endemic range of B. burgdorferi (the spirochete that infects the deer tick and causes LD), no natural, vegetated area can be considered completely free of infected ticks.

Deer ticks cannot jump or fly, and do not drop from above onto a passing animal. Potential hosts (which include all wild birds and mammals, domestic animals, and humans) acquire ticks only by direct contact with them. Once a tick latches onto human skin it generally climbs upward until it reaches a protected or creased area, often the back of the knee, groin, navel, armpit, ears, or nape of the neck. It then begins the process of inserting its mouth parts into the skin until it reaches the blood supply.

In tick-infested areas, the best precaution against LD is to avoid contact with soil, leaf litter and vegetation as much as possible. However, if you garden, hike, camp, hunt, work outdoors or otherwise spend time in woods, brush or overgrown fields, you should use a combination of precautions to dramatically reduce your chances of getting Lyme disease:

■Deer ticks and two other common tick species - dog ticks and Lone Star ticks (neither of which is known to transmit Lyme disease)

*Deer ticks are found east of the Rockies; their look-alike close relatives, the western black-legged ticks, are found and can transmit Lyme disease west of the Rockies.

Then, when spending time outdoors, make these easy precautions part of your routine:

■Wear enclosed shoes and light-colored clothing with a tight weave to spot ticks easily

■Scan clothes and any exposed skin frequently for ticks while outdoors

■Stay on cleared, well-traveled trails

■Use insect repellant containing DEET (Diethyl-meta-toluamide) on skin or clothes if you intend to go off-trail or into overgrown areas

■Avoid sitting directly on the ground or on stone walls (havens for ticks and their hosts)

■Keep long hair tied back, especially when gardening

■Do a final, full-body tick-check at the end of the day (also check children and pets)

When taking the above precautions, consider these important facts:
■If you tuck long pants into socks and shirts into pants, be aware that ticks that contact your clothes will climb upward in search of exposed skin. This means they may climb to hidden areas of the head and neck if not intercepted first; spot-check clothes frequently.

■Clothes can be sprayed with either DEET or Permethrin. Only DEET can be used on exposed skin, but never in high concentrations; follow the manufacturer's directions.

■Upon returning home, clothes can be spun in the dryer for 20 minutes to kill any unseen ticks

■A shower and shampoo may help to remove crawling ticks, but will not remove attached ticks. Inspect yourself and your children carefully after a shower. Keep in mind that nymphal deer ticks are the size of poppy seeds; adult deer ticks are the size of apple seeds.

Any contact with vegetation, even playing in the yard, can result in exposure to ticks, so careful daily self-inspection is necessary whenever you engage in outdoor activities and the temperature exceeds 45° F (the temperature above which deer ticks are active). Frequent tick checks should be followed by a systematic, whole-body examination each night before going to bed. Performed consistently, this ritual is perhaps the single most effective current method for prevention of Lyme disease.

If you DO find a tick attached to your skin, there is no need to panic. Not all ticks are infected, and studies of infected deer ticks have shown that they begin transmitting Lyme disease an average of 36 to 48 hours after attachment.Therefore, your chances of contracting LD are greatly reduced if you remove a tick within the first 48 hours. Remember, too, that nearly all of early diagnosed Lyme disease cases are easily treated and cured.

To remove a tick, follow these steps:
1.Using a pair of pointed precision tweezers, grasp the tick by the head or mouth parts right where they enter the skin. DO NOT grasp the tick by the body.

2.Without jerking, pull firmly and steadily directly outward. DO NOT twist the tick out or apply petroleum jelly, a hot match, alcohol or any other irritant to the tick in an attempt to get it to back out.

3.Place the tick in a vial or jar of alcohol to kill it.

4.Clean the bite wound with disinfectant.

Keep in mind that certain types of fine-pointed tweezers, especially those that are etched, or rasped, at the tips, may not be effective in removing nymphal deer ticks. Choose unrasped fine-pointed tweezers whose tips align tightly when pressed firmly together.  Then, monitor the site of the bite for the appearance of a rash beginning 3 to 30 days after the bite. At the same time, learn about the other early symptoms of Lyme disease and watch to see if they appear in about the same time frame. If a rash or other early symptoms develop, see a physician immediately. Finally, prevention is not limited to personal precautions. Those who enjoy spending time in their yards can reduce the tick population around the home by:
■keeping lawns mowed and edges trimmed

■clearing brush, leaf litter and tall grass around houses and at the edges of gardens and open stone walls

■stacking woodpiles neatly in a dry location and preferably off the ground

■clearing all leaf litter (including the remains of perennials) out of the garden in the fall

■having a licensed professional spray the residential environment (only the areas frequented by humans) with an insecticide in late May (to control nymphs) and optionally in September (to control adults)."


This article is in honor of my bub, Browning's Belgium Sweet Sixteen. Call Name: Gauge. He died after a long life that might have been prolonged if we caught his Lyme Disease earlier.
 The End
The best defense is always a great offense! Be vigilant! Religiously use topical tick preventatives and check yourself and your gundogs over every chance you get and double check twice over when you're both active in environments that are known tick habitats -and even those that are not!

Best of luck out there,

Mark Northup



Quotes used and denoted are the property of:American Lyme Disease Foundation, Inc., All rights reserved. Copyright © 2006